
I was recently e-mailed by a Miss McRae requesting information on Marie Antoinette and chocolate. I thought this the best opportunity to write another small food-related essay. This time it is on chocolate during the 18th century. I will first be writing about general chocolate information within the 1700s and then it will be followed up by a paragraph about the French queen as well as some additional information on making your own Marie Antoinette-themed chocolates.
Firstly, when thinking on chocolate within the 18
th century, one must put aside what they view to be common and popular forms in the modern day. Most chocolate today seems to be in the form of molded candies or dipped truffles. But, during the 1700s, chocolate was primarily consumed as a beverage.
Yet the chocolate drink that was consumes was not the hot cocoa of today- one should also note that there is a significant difference even today between hot cocoa and hot chocolate, the primary difference being that hot cocoa is made with cocoa powder, lacking the fat of cocoa butter, and hot chocolate is made from melted chocolate bars mixed with cream. Hot chocolate became famous soon after the Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI introduced chocolate to Austria when he relocated from Madrid to Vienna. The style and type of drink presented in the following modern recipe is similar to one that would have been drunk in the 18
th century:
* Make a hot chocolate, let cool slightly;
* Add half an egg yolk per cup;
* Whisk over low heat until thickened, being careful not to let it boil;
* Serve hot, topped with a spoonful of whipped cream.
This rich chocolate drink was drunk primarily in chocolate houses and mostly by the rich upper class. The rich were the primary consumers since chocolate was extremely expensive- costing about three times the price of a cup of coffee. Chocolate was one of the many items that helped to make clear the divisions of class during the 18
th century.
The division of class could be seen not only in who could afford to consume this chocolate beverage, but in who was preparing it. Maids to the rich were required to labor though the perpetual whipping process that kept it frothy, rich and smooth. Chocolate's social divisions even came into play in something as simple as breakfast. While noblemen dined on it for their morning meal, the classes below had to resort to coffee.
As I mentioned before, many of the chocolates we seen in stores today come in the form of molded confections and bars. Molded chocolates existed within the 18th century, but they were not popular due to the high price tag. In fact, most of these molded chocolates were actually a combination of cocoa paste and sugar that was molded in chocolate houses to make storage easier. But it is Italy that started promoting chocolate as something other than a drink.
18th century Italian cookbooks contained recipes for main dishes, desserts, ices, dragees, marzipans, biscuits, creams and some mousses. Specific recipes even included fried liver dipped in chocolate, polenta with almond and chocolate breadcrumbs, and chocolate soup (made with milk, sugar, chocolate, cinnamon and egg yolks) served over toast.
But this is not to say that chocolates as we know today were not eaten by a figure such as Marie Antoinette.

Queen Marie Antoinette greatly disliked the taste of medicine. So, to solve this problem and since chocolate was considered as a healthful item at the time, the royal family chemist, Sulpice Debauve, created the Pistole de Marie Antoinette- coins of 99% cocoa that were flavoured with almond oil, bitter coffee, vanilla, Orgeat cream, or orange blossom- amongst these flavours it is said that the Queen favored almond milk and orange flower blossom. (These chocolates are still available today, but many of us probably are not willing to pay the $200 price tag.)
So, since I was asked about a Marie Antoinette themed molded chocolate, I think the best option is to buy molds with a Fleur de Lis pattern, like these:
-
Square Fleur de Lis moldOR
-
Oval Fleur de Lis moldThen, using a favourite chocolate candy recipe, infuse the ganache with almond or orange flower blossom.
For a Marie Antoinette-themed chocolate party, one could serve the 18
th century hot chocolate along with things like the molded chocolates above, mini chocolate tarts, and- even though I would not say it is historically accurate- chocolate Parisian macarons.
[Recipe for Viennese-style hot chocolate is from
this website.]
[Marie Antoinette chocolate can be purchased from
Debauve and Gallais. ]
* Also, for those interested, the disks of chocolates with fruit and nuts embedded within them are called "mendiants". Recipes for these tasty confections can be found
here,
here. For those who enjoy white chocolate, recipes can be found
here and
here. But by far the most informative article on these chocolates is the one I have linked from La Tartine Gourmande- which goes into the history of these chocolates and their relation to Christmas.